Sunday, January 27, 2019

Vietnam (2): Settling In

WOOOOOOOOOW!!! 
So much has happened in such a short space of time!!! 
As we reach the end of our second full week in Vietnam (17 days here already, but who's counting!), I find myself living in that all-too-familiar contradiction of "Where has the time gone?!", and also "Wow, we've only been here TWO weeks?!". 

In fairness, I couldn't be more grateful. That awful limbo-space of beginning a brand new chapter in a brand new place is no longer feeling awful - although still decidedly limbo! The initial General State of Confusion is being exited. We're starting to know our way around, starting to fall into a routine of sorts, starting to get a feel for the place...

The major development for me, personally, has been on the work front. As my friend Candice told me right in the beginning: you have to be your own entrepreneur here. You sell yourself, you sell your hours, you hustle and manoeuvre. You build your own schedule by simultaneously working for a number of language schools at a time, and try to work it out so that you end up with a schedule that is most beneficial and best-suited to YOUR personal needs, in terms of the hours you wish to invest, and the returns which you wish to enjoy.

Now: this is all rather daunting for someone who is used to working a set weekly schedule, as most of us are. We're used to a Monday to Friday workweek, working X amount of hours within the usual 8 - 4 or 9 - 5 parameters. It's overwhelming to go for interviews and be asked how many hours you want, and on what days, or to be given a schedule and asked if it suits you, while waiting on schedules from numerous other companies, and all of them are waiting for your answer because there are other people who need those hours too... ARGH!!! It's been an EDUCATION, if you'll pardon the cheesy metaphor!

Anyway. I'm set, it seems. I'll be working 4.5 hours at the University a week (which is 2 classes), and after April another 4 classes will be added, which will bring me to 13 hours in total. 
Then I signed on as the Grade 3 English teacher at the biggest public school on the island, which I'm REALLY excited about. 6 classes with 35 kids in each, 8 years old. I think it's going to be an incredibly challenging and wonderfully enriching experience for me as an educator. It'll be vastly different from anything I've ever done before. But I've worked there for all of this week and a few lessons last week too, and I really do enjoy the environment. It feels like ACTUAL teaching. I connect with both the staff and students in a way in which I never did in all of the private institutions I've ever worked at.
Finally, I'll be working at one of the biggest language centres here on the weekends - one class of littleys on Saturday and Sunday morning, and a class of teenagers on Saturday and Sunday evenings. 
If the University accepts my proposed class-schedule, I should have a 26 hour workweek in total, with Mondays and Fridays off. And make enough money to enjoy my life here, as well as put some aside for travel and life. Fingers crossed!!!
(Shaun has his first batch of interviews and demos lined up for the week ahead. He's going to ROCK them, charmer that he is. ;) )

We've had some really awesome experiences in this past week that have brought me a great deal of joy, and continue to endear me to this place more and more each day. I'm often reminded of Taiwan in many of the interactions here, and I imagine it has a fair amount to do with the overriding Taoist/Buddhist ethos of most of the Vietnamese people, as well as the historic Chinese influence.

Most prevalent at the moment, of course, is the upcoming Lunar New Year, known here as "Tet". For the first two weeks of February, Vietnam will be on holiday (along with the rest of most of East Asia). The streets and alleys are being covered in fairy lights and lanterns, trees are being adorned with red envelopes, pomelos (a huge, delicious citrus fruit that is traditionally eaten around this time) are EVERYWHERE, big red festive signs seem to be going up everywhere around the town wishing everyone a "Chuc Mung Nam Moi!" ("Happy New Year!"), and there's a general sense of jubilation and excitement all around.

We were very fortunate to be invited to dinner at our landlords last week, who live on the 4th floor, just above us, as something of a pre-New-Year get-together... Candice and Connor, Shaun and I, and another couple who also rent from them: he's French Belgian, she's Vietnamese. 

The landlords are a young Vietnamese couple in their 30s, who used their wedding money to buy a small piece of land on the side of a mountain in this lovely little coastal town. Him being an architect, they built a house in which they could live comfortably on the top floor, and still rent out the two apartments below. As he explained to me, property in Vietnam is very expensive, so people build UP. (I should have known this house was designed by an architect. My mum is an architect, and the way this house flows into beautiful spaces and areas is something that immediately resonated with me, after years of learning from her and listening to her).

Dinner was casual and plentiful, traditional and unpretentious: a table laden with roast duck and roast chicken, different types of spring rolls, rice, greens, steamed fish, and different and interesting little sauces to go with each dish. The beer flowed freely, conversation was lively and interesting (I'd expected it to be somewhat stilted, as these events generally tend to be, what with the language and cultural differences, and the coyness and humility of local hosts as opposed to the brashness and gregariousness of us Westerners, usually - but we all fell into a rather comfortable repartee rather quickly). 
We left with full bellies, big smiles, a warmth and gratitude for all that is Vietnam... and a cactus-plant each for Candy and I, after we'd admired the landlady's beautiful potted succulents - a very typically Asian gesture of kindness.

The other really cool thing that happened since last I wrote was this party we went to last Sunday night (most teachers here work full weekends, so Sunday night is the big party night here). We all went out to a place called Pineapple Beach Bar, which is literally across the road from the beach, for a birthday shindig. They have craft beers, a pool table, and a balcony overlooking the beach. They were also supposed to have a live music act, but when his equipment wouldn't work, the owners asked our friend Connor to save the day. He went rushing home to get the DJ equipment, and him and Shaun ended up DJing there! It was AWESOME!!! My man was cool as a cucumber, the consummate professional, and the floor was pumping! I couldn't have been prouder.

Also on the same night, Vietnam won their Asian Cup football match against Jordan, and the celebrations were quite something to behold! Suddenly, a parade of scooters and trucks FILLED the beach road, hooting, blasting music, and waving Vietnamese flags! It went on and on, both lanes were completely packed as the procession inched along the beach, everyone going in the same direction - elated in their victory.

We've had some adventures, Shaun and I. We like to go driving around without any real destination in mind - following the roads wherever they lead. Sometimes I go for walks in the narrow lanes and alleys around our house. It's so interesting to me, watching life unfolding all around me. There's a little old man who is clearly homeless, who lives in a hammock strung up between two trees on the pavement along the nearby main road. He always has food, and a drink in his hand. I think the vendors along the road take turns feeding him, as I've seen them chatting to him often...

One day, at the end of a Shaun-Honey Adventure Day, we popped into a Korean restaurant for dinner. We started chatting to a man outside, who introduced himself as Mr Kim, the proprietor of a new coffee shop in town. Later, as we finished our meal and got ready to pay the bill, Mr Kim said goodbye and told us to come to see his shop sometime. Him and his friends were out the door already when they doubled back and came back inside with a Vietnamese man, who promptly sat down at a little piano in the corner and started playing the most beautiful music! Mr Kim requested a song "in D-minor", and was soon singing along, while the rest of us watched and enjoyed! 
After they left, the Vietnamese restaurant owner came to chat to us, and explained that her husband (whom we'd just observed) was a professional musician, and played the piano, violin and saxophone at various hotels and venues around the city. She gave us her card, and invited us to come round to their house for free lessons anytime. She said she used to be a doctor, and was born and raised in Vung Tau, and offered to help us with anything we needed while we were here, because she loves her home town and wants everyone who experiences it to love it, too.

We left feeling high on life, high on Vietnam, high on the kindness of strangers.
THIS is why we're here.
This is the magic of stepping outside of the boundaries of regular life.
And I cherish every moment of it.


First time at the beach!

 
Dinner with our lovely landlords

Shaun getting ready to DJ at Pineapple Beach Bar 

 Sign at Pineapple Beach Bar

 Buddhist nuns outside a temple

 Lunar New Year decorations in the alley

 Scenes while out walking one day...

 Scenes while out walking one day...

 Scenes while out walking one day...

 Warrior statue in the park

 Buddhist temple

First time at the beach!

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Vietnam (1): First Impressions

WHOOSH!!! And here we are!

New country, new continent, new time-zone, new life.
And I am SO INCREDIBLY HAPPY TO BE BACK IN ASIA!!!
The pace is just different. The energy is different. Life has a completely different hue here...

In a way, I wish it were Shaun writing this blog rather than I, because everything feels so familiar to me, everything feels - oddly, yet unsurprisingly - like being home again. I've been encouraging him to  point out all of the things which he finds interesting, or different, or attention-worthy here. And every time he does, I realize that these things haven't registered with me at all, because after spending a decade of my life in Asia, it's all so natural to me!

We're in Vung Tau, which is a peninsula at the very southern tip of Vietnam, about 2 hours outside of Saigon/ Ho Chi Minh City. It's little: about 140 square km in total, roughly (I've been told) 14 km by 7 km in size, with a population of about 300 thousand people. The beaches aren't very prominent (to be fair, we have yet to go to one), but there are little pockets of beach littered along the coastline where I've seen people swimming at all hours of the day and night. But there are lovely parks and green areas, little nooks and crannies and enclaves to explore...
Life is slow here, as if we were living on an island. I'm SO happy to be out of the insanity of Johannesburg. WOW. 

First things first: official responsibilities. I started looking for work today. Had an interview at the University, and a school, and dropped off my CV at two other noted schools on the island. Our friends here don't seem to foresee any difficulty in us finding jobs. We wanted some time to acclimatize to a new environment, so we gave it a week. I've made the mistake before (more than once) of rushing into the first thing I find in a sense of desperate urgency, only to spend the next months feeling unhappy and frustrated. I won't make that mistake again.
From what I've observed, the foreign teacher schedule is 2 hours every evening (around 6 - 8 pm), Monday to Friday, and "full" days on Saturday and Sunday (with a 3 - 4 hour break in the middle). For that schedule, I'll earn THREE TIMES as much as I did in South Africa - at a far cheaper cost of living. Plus a lot of teachers here do online teaching, too. That brings in even more money. The potential for saving is incredible. 

Also - and just as importantly, there's so much free time for other things! Exercise, study, whatever you like! I'm really excited! It's common knowledge that I'm a giant geek. I LOVE studying, learning, expanding my horizons. I can't wait to flex my brain-muscle once again!
 
We're SO lucky. We've come to stay with one of Shaun's best friends, Connor, and his girlfriend, Candice - who are SUCH fabulous human beings! We're living with them for now until we find a place of our own. They have a big, beautiful, 3-room house with a large outdoor balcony, on which Connor (informally) runs 10 a.m stretches and yoga and Jiu Jitsu classes, which he encourages his friends to join. Different friends show up every morning - it's SO cool. We're totally keen on getting involved regularly... it'll be so nice to reintroduce exercise into my life again!
I was always too exhausted to do anything at all back in Johannesburg. Mentally, emotionally, physically... Battling rush-hour traffic twice a day? That alone is enough to render one bedridden by 7 p.m! My body craves it, I can feel it. I've been joining-in on the morning stretches, then when the boys start wrestling on the mats, I've been moving into the lounge and doing my own weight-and-fitness routines. Nothing crazy, nothing heavy, but just working my body again has felt soooooooo good! I can feel the gratitude seeping from my pores!
Plus, Shaun will finally have the time to pursue his passion of electronic music. Connor and Candice plan on starting to throw regular parties here (they had their first one on NYE), and my brilliant man will start DJing at those. I'm SO happy for him!!! After about a decade of working in construction: long hours, long days, in a stressful and miserable work environment, under dangerous conditions... he was exhausted, and uninspired. The artist in him has been screaming for release. I've seen a new Shaun since we got here. It's beautiful.

Some random yet fascinating initial observations:
Firstly, our fabulous hosts hired a motorbike for us for the first month, since that's how everyone here gets around. Traffic is typically Asian: everyone does exactly as they please, and everything runs smoothly because of it. I'll post a video and go into more detail next time, but it's quite something to behold!
Also, because of the heat, there is a siesta-culture here, too. Everything shuts down between about 12 and 3, in order for everyone to have a nap. Delicious! In turn, that also means that things shut down later in the evenings, which makes for a vibrant and busy night-time culture. Such fun!
We've met a few other expats here so far, and everyone's been SO nice. There's that old expat unity that I've missed: it's a camaraderie, a "we're-all-in-this-together"-ness, an understanding that comes from the fact that everyone's doing the same job and therefore experiencing the same challenges together. LOTS of South Africans! Which has also made assimilating so much easier.
I've also noticed that the city seems to be evenly split between the Buddhist and Christian faiths. There are as many churches as there are temples, and just as there looms a giant madonna-with-child statue up on the hill, so too is there a Buddhist one on a different hill. There's even a smaller-than-the-original Christ the Redeemer here! It makes for what appears to be a distinctly pious and peaceful energy...
Our lives here so far have been WONDERFUL. Wake up, morning-exercise sessions, drive around with C and C to get food and get to know the city (OMG ALL OF THE FOOD IS SO GOOD!!!), afternoon nap. In the evenings while our hosts are at work, Shaun and I have been exploring the island, he's been practicing driving the motorbike (I have no desire to learn - I managed to avoid it for a decade, I shall continue to do so for as long as I can), we've been reading up on life here, he's been working on his music, I've been reading (what a luxury! I can't remember the last time I read a book!).
Then at night the 4 of us will either go out for dinner or cook together at home... friends drop in and out of the house... it's all so easy and fluid here. The rhythm is SO good.

I'm really, truly, happy we made this move. We both are.
May it continue in this vein, and may everything fall into place for us in the weeks ahead. Sending out good vibes to the Universe.
Love and light to you all!!! xxx



 About to land in Asia! WHEEEEEE!!! :)

 First meal in Vietnam, at home with the utterly lovely Candice and Connor!

 Driving through the streets of Vung Tau

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Sights around the city, off the back of a scooter

 Mountain-top sunset facing West...

... and East, overlooking the fisheries in this port town

Vietlovin'